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Blocked drains

Kitchen Sinks:
  • Run very hot water down the drain followed by a bit of washing up dish detergent to try and soften the block.
  • After a few minutes, gently use a plunger and flush with more hot water.
Showers, Bathtubs, or Bathroom Sinks:
  • Mix one cup of vinegar and one cup of baking soda.
  • Pour mixture down your drain and wait ten minutes.
  • Flush with very hot water from a kettle.
Main Drain Pipe:
  • If you suspect your main drain pipe is blocked, we recommend calling a professional plumber to identify and repair the problem

Toilet Leak

Blocked or slow flushing toilet

If you can’t clear a blocked toilet with a plunger, a plumber may be required to use a snake to clear the blockage. Mineral build up inside the bowl of an older toilet can also cause lazy flushing of an otherwise unblocked toilet. Toilet replacement by a licensed plumber is the best option for older toilets that regularly flush poorly.

Constantly running toilet

A leaking flush valve at the bottom of the toilet tank is one common cause of water that keeps running continually into a toilet tank and bowl. A defective or poorly-adjusted fill valve can also allow water to continue filling the tank without stopping. There’s limited risk of water damage involved in these repairs, so some homeowners tackle it themselves.  A plumber is also an option.

Water supply leak

Even a small water leak from the pipe or hose that connects to the toilet tank is serious because it can develop into a large and damaging leak. The water supply will need to be shut off, the connection repaired, then the water turned back on.  Most homeowners require a plumber for this task.

Tank-to-toilet leak

If a leak appears where the toilet tank connects to the back of the bowl, the tank-to-bowl gasket needs to be replaced. The tank will need to be drained and the tank removed from the toilet bowl to install this gasket. Most people hire a plumber for this work.

Overflowing toilet

Most toilets have a valve on the pipe connected to the toilet tank and shutting off this valve will stop a toilet from overflowing. If your toilet doesn’t have a shutoff valve, shut off the main water supply valve for your house. Don’t turn this valve back on until the toilet blockage is cleared and the toilet bowl is emptying properly.

Leaking Taps

A worn-out washer

During use, your tap’s rubber washer is forced against the valve seat. This constant friction will cause the washer to wear out over time – resulting in a dripping tap. A worn-out washer is one of the most common cause of a leaky tap, and also the simplest one to fix.

A damaged O-ring

The O-ring is attached to the stem screw that holds the handle of your tap in place. If the O-ring becomes loose or wears out from regular use, your tap may drip near the handle and should be replaced.

A corroded valve seat

If your tap still drips after you have replaced the washer and O-ring, you may have a corroded valve seat. A professional plumber can clean or replace the part to fix the leak.

A badly-installed washer

If your washer is the wrong size or improperly installed it can cause a leaky tap. A domestic plumber can help you select and install the right washer for your tap.

What's the difference between commercial and domestic plumbing?

A: Domestic plumbers have the skills and experience to handle problems in the home. But a faulty commercial plumbing system can present more problems. Businesses are often larger, meaning there’s more pipes and outlets. Commercial premises often provide toilets and sinks for staff and customers meaning an increased demand that domestic systems don’t have to manage.

How is Pace Heating & Plumbing keeping customers safe during engineer visits?

A: Keeping you and our engineers safe is our top priority. Our engineers will follow the latest government guidelines to prevent the spread of coronavirus when at your business premises.

To find out more, read our coronavirus update and FAQs

What if I'm looking for a plan for my home or a home I rent out?

A: We can help protect your plumbing  at home. Visit our Domestic plumbing services  pages for more information.

Hot water but no heating

A boiler should provide your home with central heating and domestic hot water. If you’ve found that you’re getting hot water from the taps but no central heating, there’s a problem.

  • When you have no central heating, first make sure your thermostat is working and then check to see if the boiler pressure is too low.
  • Thermostats allow you to control the temperature of the central heating, as well as the time it should come on. If the heating hasn’t come on at the expected time, double check the settings.
  • Boiler pressure is a term used to describe the pressure of the hot water running through the central heating system. Should the boiler pressure drop too low, the central heating will fail to work.
  • Increasing the boiler pressure is something you can do without calling out a heating engineer. However, if you’re the slightest bit unsure, don’t hesitate to contact us at Pace Heating & Plumbing.
  • Thermostat troubles and low boiler pressure aren’t the only reasons why you might have domestic hot water but no heating. Unfortunately, though, this is where it gets a little more complex
  • If your thermostat is fine and the boiler pressure is high enough, there could be a fault in need of professional repair.
  • A Pace heating engineer will diagnose the fault and carry out the necessary repairs or replace broken parts.
No heat or hot water

You should be able to rely on your boiler to provide your home with heating and hot water. If you find that it isn’t able to do either then you’ll want to get it fixed as quickly as possible.

There’s no single issue that can lead to your boiler failing to provide heat or hot water.

Before jumping to conclusions about potential faults, check that power is being supplied to the boiler.

If your boiler is receiving power then we can begin looking further into possible issues. Your boiler should display an error code to help you locate the source of the problem. However, to give you some ideas, possible issues include:

  • Fuel isn’t making its way into your property. If you have a gas boiler, ensure that your gas supplier is still supplying fuel.
  • Double check the thermostat settings and set the desired temperature higher than the current room temperature
  • The condensate pipe has frozen and needs thawing out (we’ll come onto this later below)
  • Low boiler pressure so ensure the boiler pressure is set according to the manufacturers instructions (usually between 1 and 2 on the pressure gauge)
  • Older boilers will have a pilot light, a small flame that constantly burns before lighting a larger flame when heating or hot water is needed. If the pilot light goes out then the boiler won’t be able to fire into action.
Boiler is leaking

A leak coming from your boiler is never a good sign. And the cause of the leak will depend where the water is coming from.

Before attempting to locate the cause of the leak, stop the water supply and turn off the central heating.


It’s important to note that you should never attempt to repair a boiler leak yourself – A Pace heating engineer will diagnose the fault and carry out the necessary repairs or replace broken parts.

The most common cause of a leaking boiler is a broken internal component, such as a pump seal or pressure valve. If the leak is coming from the pressure valve it could be the case that the boiler pressure is too high. Meanwhile, a leak from the pump seal is a sign that it may have worn out and need replacing.

In the case that the boiler is leaking around the pipes or tank then that’s a strong indication of corrosion. Otherwise, it could be the result of a poor installation. Either way, we recommend calling Pace Heating & Plumbing

Boiler is kettling

Hearing a strange rumbling noise similar to when a kettle is boiling? When lime scale or sludge builds up on your boiler’s heat exchanger (a coil that transfers heat from the fuel to the water that will circulate around the heating system) you can get something called kettling.

When debris builds up in your boiler, it can restrict the flow of water within the heat exchanger. This can overheat the water, causing it to steam and boil – causing kettle-like sounds.


Kettling is more common in areas with hard water, but can affect boilers in soft water areas too. Not only does it cause your boiler to work harder and thus cost more to run, it can also shorten the system’s life.

If your boiler is kettling, it’s advisable to call Pace Heating & Plumbing support 0207-183-2727. The engineer will likely flush out your system to remove the build-up of these deposits and ensure the system is working properly once more.

Noisy boiler (e.g. banging, whistling, gurgling)

From banging and clanging to whistles and gurgles, a heating system can make a number of noises caused for a number of reasons. If you hear a noise coming from the boiler or heating system, don’t ignore it as there’s probably a fault. The potential fault will vary depending on the type of sound and where it’s coming from. We’ve listed some common boiler noises below to help you find the cause.

 

Whistling; We’ve already covered kettle-like sounds, caused by a build-up of sludge on the heat exchanger.

Banging; Banging will commonly be caused by the pipework or an internal component coming loose but could also be the result of debris building up on the heat exchanger. Some banging noises could potentially be an indication that the pump – which pumps hot water from the boiler around the central heating system – is close to failing.

Clanking; A sound not too far from banging is a clanging noise that could again be caused by loose pipework. Alternatively, it could mean that the boiler fan is being obstructed.

Buzzing; A buzzing noise could indicate that electrical components within the boiler are malfunctioning and likely need to be replaced. If the buzzing noise is coming from the thermostat then it could mean that the conductor is dirty and needs to be replaced

Humming; Boilers tend to have some operational noise that resembles a slight humming – for the most silent models, look out for boilers that have been quiet– but a loud humming could be the sign of a loose part (most likely the central heating pump).

Gurgling; Too much air within the pipes can cause blockages that prevent the water from circulating around the heating system. Should you be hearing this by a radiator then it’s likely that they need to be bled.

Low boiler pressure

Boiler pressure is a measurement of the pressure of the hot water passing through the central heating system. Should the boiler pressure drop too low then the central heating will fail to work.

Your boiler will feature a pressure gauge that can be used to read the boiler pressure. If the needle is anywhere below 1 then the pressure is too low. Typically boiler pressure should sit somewhere between 1 and 2. However, you should consult the manufacturer’s instructions to find the appropriate pressure for your boiler.

All boilers will very gradually lose boiler pressure over time but a sudden sharp drop could be the sign of a bigger issue. So if you’ve noticed a drop in boiler pressure check for water leaks and cold patches on radiators (as they may need bleeding).

Increasing boiler pressure is something you can do yourself although you shouldn’t hesitate to contact us at Pace if you need to.

Frozen condensate pipe

Condensing boilers have a condensate pipe which leads acidic water, produced as the boiler operates, away from the unit and down a drain. Many condensate pipes are external to the property which, as they contain liquid, can make them prone to freezing.

You can thaw out the condensate pipe yourself by pouring warm (not boiling) water over the frozen area.

To prevent the condensate pipe from freezing in future, we recommend lagging the pipe. Lagging simply means wrapping the pipe with insulation to keep it warmer and lower the risk of it freezing.

Wrapping the pipe with insulation is something you can do yourself although you shouldn’t hesitate to contact us at Pace if you need to.

Radiators are cold

In the case that some of your radiators aren’t heating up then there could be a build up of sludge or air in the system.

 
If only the bottom of your radiator is getting hot then you might need to bleed the radiator. This is fairly straightforward and doesn’t require an heating engineer but if you don’t feel comfortable doing it then contact Pace Heating & Plumbing if you need to.

If certain radiators aren’t getting hot then your radiators could need balancing. This can also be done without the help of an heating engineer but only if you feel confident doing it. The process involves adjusting the valves on all of the radiators in your property to ensure each is getting enough hot water to work effectively. Our guide on How to Balance Radiators can take you through the process.

Should you try bleeding and balancing your radiators but have no luck then you could well have an issue with sludge build up preventing a free flow of hot water to the radiators. A Pace Heating & Plumbing engineer can remove this build up by chemically cleaning or flushing the system, this is something that you shouldn’t try yourself.

Boiler keeps switching itself off

A boiler could be constantly switching itself off for a number of reasons. Some of the key culprits are:

  • Low boiler pressure
  • Thermostat issues
  • Lack of water flow due to a closed valve or the pump not circulating the water around the system properly
  • Too much air within the system
  • A build up of sludge or other debris within the system

If the thermostat is working as it should and the boiler pressure is in line with the manufacturer’s instructions then it’s time to call Pace Heating & Plumbing 0207-183-2727.

Boiler is not responding to the thermostat

Pairing your boiler with a thermostat – particularly a smart thermostat – is a great way to increase the efficiency of your home. However, if your boiler isn’t responding to the thermostat then it can be particularly frustrating.

Start by making sure the temperature on the thermostat is above the current room temperature.

 
If the boiler still doesn’t respond after turning the room thermostat right up then it’s time to look into the problem a little further:

  • Check it has a full charge and working batteries
  • Smart thermostats need to be connected to the internet so make sure your Wi-FI is running
  • Look through the temperature settings and daily schedules that may be preventing the heating from coming on.

5 Frequently Asked Question by Landlord

No hot water

A good place to start is by taking a look at the thermostat on the hot water cylinder. Make sure it’s set to the correct temperature and timings. If the temperature on the thermostat is accurate then we need to take a deeper look.

Should the system be powered by electricity (an immersion heater) then you need to check that your power supply is functioning.

Any hot water cylinder powered by a gas boiler relies on the boiler to warm the water up. In the event that it’s failing to ignite then you’ll be left with no hot water.

Water is too hot

Before looking into this issue, make sure the temperature of the water in the cylinder has been turned down.

It’s likely that there could be an issue with the temperature pressure relief valve not shutting off when it reaches the set temperature. This fault can be particularly dangerous because steaming or boiling water could start coming out of your taps; Call Pace Heating & Plumbing our heating engineer will repair or replace the valve.

You will also need a heating engineer if there’s any sign of boiling from within the cylinder.

Water is discoloured or smelly

The best way to check if the smell is coming from your hot water cylinder is to run a cold tap and see if it has an odour. If not, then the issue is coming from the warm water in the cylinder. Smelly or discoloured cold water will mean that the issue lies with the mains water supply.

Hot water that’s discoloured or has a dodgy smell can be the result of the cylinder’s anode rod (which helps to prevent corrosion) and water with a high concentration of sulphates. To resolve this, the cylinder may need to be flushed, have its anode replaced or be completely replaced.

Flushing the cylinder will help to get rid of the smell-causing sulphates but the smell is likely to remain.

Leaky cylinder or pipes
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Strange noises

A hot water cylinder will make some form of noise as it works to heat the hot water. However, if you notice popping, screeching or sizzling sounds then there could be a problem.

A popping noise is fairly common noise and is the result of debris building up at the bottom of the tank. This build-up traps water which then makes a popping noise as it escapes when the water heats up. If you live in a hard water area then your cylinder will be more susceptible. To resolve this issue, Pace Heating & Plumbing engineer will flush out the debris and this can be done as part of the Plumbing Protection Plan annually.

What are the landlord gas safety checks and responsibilities?

All landlords in the UK are required to provide or carry out three things:

  1. An annual gas safety check
  2. Records of the Gas Safety record (sometimes called a Gas Safety Certificate or CP12 record)
  3. Ongoing maintenance of gas appliances

When tenants vacate rented premises, Landlords need to ensure that gas fittings and appliances are safe before re-letting. Appropriate checks should be carried out and any unsafe equipment rectified or removed before a new tenancy begins.

If you are a landlord who needs advice on getting a gas safety or CP12 record, or you need to know how to safely maintain your gas appliances, read on.

What is an annual gas safety check?

Once a year, landlords should arrange for a Gas Safe registered Home Expert to visit their property to ensure gas fittings and appliances are up to safety standards. Once your gas safety check is complete, you’ll be issued with a Gas Safety or CP12 record.

 

the annual gas safety check involve:

A Gas Safe registered Home Expert will carry out the following inspections at your property:

  • Check that appliances are well ventilated and that there is a constant supply of fresh air enabling the gas to burn properly
  • Check the installation and appliances for gas tightness
  • Check that all safety devices are working effectively
  • Inspect the flue or chimney to make sure all fumes leave the property via the appropriate means
  • Declare an appliance unsafe if they find any faults
  • Make sure that gas appliances are not being misused e.g. a cooker must not be used to heat a room

Please note: if you’re a landlord whose tenants have brought any of their own gas appliances, you are responsible for any pipework that supplies gas to them.

What is a Landlord Gas Safety Certificate or CP12 record?

You might hear the Landlords’ Gas Safety record being referred to as a ‘CP12’. It’s the same document. CP12 is an abbreviation of CORGI Proforma 12, named because CORGI was the official regulatory body for UK gas safety between 1991 and 2009. In 2009 CORGI was replaced by the Gas Safe Register and the document adopted other names like the Landlord Gas Safety Certificate or the Gas Safety Record. They all mean the same thing.

Why do landlords need a CP12 or gas safety certificate?

Landlords are required by law to have their Gas Safety record updated every year, to prove that all the life-saving gas safety checks have been made at your property. Once your gas safety check is completed, you’ll be issued with a Gas Safety or CP12 record. As the landlord of the property, you are required to give a copy to your tenants within 28 days or give one to new tenants when they move in.

Top tip: It’s also a great idea as a responsible landlord to show new tenants how to turn off the gas at the mains and tell them what to do in a gas emergency.

If you want to save on the cost of your Gas Safety check, our Pace Landlord Protection Plan, which comes with an optional Gas Safety Certificate (CP12) and boiler service,

What information must a Gas Safety record include?

After a Gas Safe registered Home Expert has visited your property and completed your annual check, they will document the following on the record:

  • The date on which the appliance or flue was checked
  • The address of your property at which the appliance or flue is installed
  • The name and address of the Landlord of the premise or where appropriate, their agent, at which the appliance or flue is installed
  • A description and location of each appliance and flue checked
  • The faults and defects identified and any action required or taken to fix them
  • The results of operational safety checks carried out on the appliances
  • The name, signature and registration number of the engineer who conducted the check

Step-by-step guide to boiler installation

Before work begins​

Before work begins​ your Pace Gas Safe engineer will want to check a few things with you first. Such as how many radiators you have, your water pressure, the number of bathrooms in your home and the positioning of the current boiler and flue.

What happens on the day of the installation?

On the day if it’s a straightforward swap — e.g. combi for combi — you should expect the engineer to be done and dusted within the day. It’s worth bearing in mind though, that if it’s a much older boiler system or you’re changing boiler type, there may be complications which prolong the installation. You’ll need to be around to have a run-through of the new boiler controls once it’s fitted.

Getting the right documentation

Getting the right documentation to comply with Building Regulations and Gas Safe rules, Pace Heating & Plumbing will notify the local authorities on your behalf when we have completed your new installation we will also give you a Building Regulations Certificate to prove compliance

What happens after the installation?

Unlike most other company Pace Heating & Plumbing will offer you a guarantee on our services. we offer a five-year warranty on our installations, These terms may vary from business to business. So always check before agreeing to the work. If you’re concerned about the safety of your new boiler installation or think that their engineer has done a bad job, follow up with them right away. They’re obliged to put right any problems they’ve created, or reimburse you for the cost of hiring a new engineer. If you’ve hired Pace Heating & Plumbing there is no need to worry.

Can I speak to someone if I have a question about buying a new boiler?

Yes, you can call us on 0207-183-2727. Our lines are open Monday to Saturday, 8am-6pm. We have limited opening hours over public holidays. We want to improve our service for you, so we may record your call to help.

How long does the appointment with your heating adviser last?

Video call appointments last around 30 minutes and in-home appointments will last around an hour and a half.

Are you still installing boilers in light of the Covid-19 outbreak?

Yes, we are currently installing boilers. You’ll find details of how we will work in a Covid-19 Secure way in our 

Frequently asked Questions

Can I speak to someone if I have a question about my new boiler installation?

Yes, you can call us on 0207-183-2727. Our lines are open Monday to Saturday, 8am-6pm. We have limited opening hours over public holidays. We want to improve our service for you, so we may record your call to help.

How long does the new boiler installation last?

New boiler installation appointments last around 1-5 day see above

Are you still installing boilers in light of the Covid-19 outbreak?

Yes, we are currently installing boilers. You’ll find details of how we will work in a Covid-19 Secure way in our 

Before work begins​

Before work begins​ your Pace Gas Safe engineer will want to check a few things with you first. Such as how many radiators you have, your water pressure, the number of bathrooms in your home and the positioning of the current boiler and flue.

What happens on the day of the installation?

On the day if it’s a straightforward swap — e.g. combi for combi — you should expect the engineer to be done and dusted within the day. It’s worth bearing in mind though, that if it’s a much older boiler system or you’re changing boiler type, there may be complications which prolong the installation. You’ll need to be around to have a run-through of the new boiler controls once it’s fitted.

Getting the right documentation

Getting the right documentation to comply with Building Regulations and Gas Safe rules, Pace Heating & Plumbing will notify the local authorities on your behalf when we have completed your new installation we will also give you a Building Regulations Certificate to prove compliance

What happens after the installation?

Unlike most other company Pace Heating & Plumbing will offer you a guarantee on our services. If you’ve hired Pace Heating & Plumbing there is no need to worry, you can call us on 0207-183-2727. Our lines are open Monday to Saturday, 8am-6pm.  We want to improve our service for you, so we may record your call to help.

Manual thermostats

Manual thermostats are economical and simple to control but the temperature in your home will only be adjusted when you manually change the settings of the thermostat.

Pros:Affordable

Cons:Temperature must be changed manually

Programmable thermostats

Programmable thermostats can help save on heating and cooling costs by adjusting the temperature inside of your home automatically throughout the day. These thermostats are very easy to operate and can be set to meet your changing needs – such for a work week vs. weekend. Advanced models of these types of thermostats can even switch between winter and summer seasons.

Pros:Affordable

Most models allow for multiple settings

Cons:Not suitable for all systems

Smart Wi-Fi thermostats

One of the newer trends in smart home technology are smart thermostats that you can control from your computer or smartphone. These thermostats learn, remember and adjust to how, when and where you use your system. They can help you to save on your energy consumption by adjusting the temperature only when it knows you need it.

Pros:Energy-efficient and convenient

Remote access to change temperature via your smartphone

Greater control of your heating and cooling could mean lower energy usage and money saved

Cons:More expensive than traditional thermostats

 Not every smart Wi-Fi thermostat works with every heating system

Communicating Wi-Fi thermostats

Beyond being able to control your home’s heating from your smartphone, communicating Wi-Fi thermostats can also communicate directly with your boiler. This feature means your thermostat can receive warnings and error codes from your boiler and ensure everything stays running smoothly. They also allow the equipment to operate at its peak efficiency and to modulate its output.

Pros:Energy efficient

Allows your equipment to operate at its peak efficiency

Remote access to change temperature via your smartphone

Cons:More expensive than traditional thermostats

What is a circulating pump?

A circulating pump is a water pump that moves hot water around your heating system. The water travels from your boiler through to the pipes that feed your radiators, towel rails, and hot water cylinder. The water then flows back to the boiler to maintain a constant flow of heated water around your home.

Central heating circulating pumps are usually located inside or near your boiler, or in your airing cupboard next to your hot water cylinder.

Circulating pump not working?

There are a few tell-tale signs that indicate your circulator pump system isn’t working correctly. You may notice:

  • The water flow pipe isn’t hot despite the pump running
  • A water leak coming from the pump
  • The pump is making unusual noises
  • The pump casing feels hot
  • Some or all of your radiators aren’t heating up
  • You have no hot water

These can be caused by problems such as blockages or an airlock in the system which can be fixed.

No water running around the system

If your circulator pump keeps running, but it’s not moving water around your system, its shaft or propeller could be stuck.

The solution: Try giving the pump a gentle tap. That may be enough to free up any components that have seized up.

If this doesn’t work, or you find the pump gets stuck regularly, it’s probably time to replace it before it fails altogether.

Call us at Pace if you think you need a replacement pump.

Noisy circulator pump

If your pump is noisy, there may be an airlock inside the pump. Airlocks can cause your pump to stop working, but luckily there’s a straightforward fix.

The solution: For a circulating pump that’s outside of your boiler, follow these instructions to remove the airlock:

You will need a flathead screwdriver and a cloth.

  1. Turn off the electrical supply to the pump
  2. Locate the small bleed screw on the pump
  3. Remember the pump is full of water, so place the cloth underneath the screw
  4. Turn the screw very slowly (less than a quarter turn is usually enough) to allow any air to escape
  5. Tighten the screw
  6. Mop up any excess water
  7. Turn the electrical supply back on

If this doesn’t stop the noise, it’s possible a bearing inside the pump has come loose. If this is the case, you will need to replace the circulating pump. If you can still hear a noise, there may be a separate issue with your boiler.

Blocked pump

If your heating is warming up slowly, not to its full temperature, or it isn’t heating up at all, the circulating pump may be blocked or it may have stopped working.

Blocked pumps can be the result of a build-up of sludge and metal particles flowing through the central heating system. The dirt can get stuck in major components, like the circulating pump, causing them to fail.

The solution: Call Pace to diagnose the issue. We may need to carry out a suitable system cleanse of the system to clean it out.

Leaking pump

If you see water leaking from your circulating pump, it may be caused by the pump working itself loose or a blown seal.

If you need assistance with leaks in the home, Pace 0207-183-2727

the solution: Firstly, tighten up all the joints using an adjustable spanner or wrench.

If it’s still leaking, check all the fittings on the pump. Some parts may have corroded. If this is the case, the pump will need to be replaced.

Finally, check the joint on the pump. If this is where the leak is coming from, the seal on the pump may have blown. In this case, call Pace 0207-183-2727 we can replace the pump.

Incorrect speed settings

Some pumps have adjustable speed and flow settings. The settings are usually between 1 and 3, with 1 being the slowest and 3 being the highest. If your radiators aren’t getting hot, the speed and flow may need adjusting.

The solution: It’s best to contact a the Pace heating engineer to diagnose and fix the problem for you.

Loss of power

If your boiler has power, but your pump doesn’t, there could be a problem with the electrical wiring.

The solution: It’s best to contact the Pace heating engineer to diagnose and fix the problem for you. 

A solution to the underfloor heating system is not heating up

Is your underfloor heating not heating up? You have noticed that more than one zone or even the whole system has stopped heating up.  Call Pace at 0207-183-2727 to schedule a service call

Isolation valves closed on the manifold

this is easy to check.  The isolation valve should be in line with the pipes on the manifold. If it isn’t, then it is stuck in the closed position – this is easy to see, as it will be at 90 degrees to the pipe. 

Blending valve pin stuck

The actuator is the mechanism that causes a device to operate.  The solution requires the removal of this actuator from the affected zone and a check to see that the pin valve is free.  You can use a silicone spray to free the pin if it is stuck down.

Boiler issues/ no power on the wiring boards

there could be a problem with signals getting to the boiler, which will require the help of a Pace heating engineer. It could be that the boiler isn’t working at all.  As with a central heating system with radiators, this is easy to check if your boiler is working. Call us at 0207-183-2727 to schedule a service call

The underfloor heating pump is working constantly

You will become used to the sound of the pump firing on and off, as you would expect a boiler to switch on when the thermostat demands more heat.  Therefore, it is easy to spot when this pump is running all the time and is a clear indication of a problem.  You are likely getting heat, but you are also using a lot of electricity, so it is good to call us at Pace to resolve this problem quickly.

Pump relay stuck on wiring board/ faulty thermostat/ underfloor heating actuator problem

All these issues result from electrical problems that will require the assistance of a Pace heating engineer. Call us at 0207-183-2727 to schedule a service.  You could try resetting the thermostat, clearing potential errors before making the calling.

Problems with the pipes

Generally, issues with your heating system are often down to the pipes. If your underfloor heating is a wet system, which runs from a boiler, then it could be a blockage or trapped air. Fortunately, these problems can be resolved just as easily as they occurred.  You may want to attempt some of these fixes yourself, though if you lack confidence a plumber or heating engineer will be able assist you.

  • Blockages cold spots where your system is laid could mean there is an internal blockage. This is unlikely to happen but flushing the system could be the answer. Seek the help of a qualified heating engineer if you think this may be your problem.
  • Trapped air is the most common problem with a malfunctioning underfloor heating system, especially one that uses hot water flowing through sub-floor pipe work. Air can get caught up in the pipe and stay there, causing issues with the whole system.  You will have experienced this in the past with radiators and you will likely know it is a simple problem to address.
  • you can remove the trapped air by bleeding the system.  Bleeding is the opening of valves to release air, and some water.  This will need to be completed at each valve. If you are unsure how to do this, contact your installation team.
Leaks

If the system keeps losing pressure, it suggests there is a leak somewhere. When the pressure drops, top your system up following the manufacturer’s guidelines. If the pressure stays low, go back a step and check that the connecting pipes to the manifold are in place and not leaking.

The leak may be located on the pipe run. The Pace heating engineer will diagnose the system and find the location of the leak.

Setting controls correctly

It’s vital for the continued health of your underfloor heating system that you set the controls up correctly. Although no major destruction can happen with a simple slip of the controls, continual running of the underfloor heating with the wrong set-up can cause issues.

You should check the following: –

  • Thermostat are the thermostats working for the rooms they’re set up for? Check the connection between it and the boiler by changing the temperature on the thermostat and seeing if the boiler and heating system responds
  • Mixing valve – This should be set at 45c for concrete screed floors and 55c for suspended wooden floors to avoid any issues that can be caused by overheating
Noises, clanking and smells

You will likely spot if there is no heat or if there is too much heat.  However, your heating system can give off other signs that there are problems that need looking at.

  • Noise – underfloor heating is a silent system. There shouldn’t be any gurgling, banging, clicking or any other kind of noises. If you start to notice it seems noisier than what it should be, there could be a problem although most are easily solved. Hearing the water run through the pipes could suggest there is an obstruction or air, which can be resolved with a flush through of the system and/ or bleeding of each valve.
  • Boiler noises – boilers can make clinking sounds etc. because they are the mechanical part of the system. Again, you are familiar with the operational sounds of your boiler, and anything out of the ordinary could suggest a problem. You should not attempt to repair a boiler yourself, It can be dangerous to remove the cover of a boiler and begin working with the parts.
  • Smells – boilers, underfloor heating or any other kind of heating system should not give off any smells and that includes a gas or fuel smell. If you do smell gas, call the emergency gas number 0800 111 999 and switch off the appliance. Click here for more information on what to do if you smell gas in your home.

Toilet Problems and Solutions:

Blocked or slow flushing toilet

If you can’t clear a blocked toilet with a plunger, a plumber may be required to use a snake to clear the blockage. Mineral build up inside the bowl of an older toilet can also cause lazy flushing of an otherwise unblocked toilet. Toilet replacement by a licensed plumber is the best option for older toilets that regularly flush poorly.

Constantly running toilet

A leaking flush valve at the bottom of the toilet tank is one common cause of water that keeps running continually into a toilet tank and bowl. A defective or poorly-adjusted fill valve can also allow water to continue filling the tank without stopping. There’s limited risk of water damage involved in these repairs, so some homeowners tackle it themselves.  A plumber is also an option.

Water supply leak

Even a small water leak from the pipe or hose that connects to the toilet tank is serious because it can develop into a large and damaging leak. The water supply will need to be shut off, the connection repaired, then the water turned back on.  Most homeowners require a plumber for this task.

Tank-to-toilet leak

If a leak appears where the toilet tank connects to the back of the bowl, the tank-to-bowl gasket needs to be replaced. The tank will need to be drained and the tank removed from the toilet bowl to install this gasket. Most people hire a plumber for this work.

Base-of-toilet leak

If water appears where the toilet sits on the floor, a defective toilet ring is probably the cause. Sometimes the water only appears immediately after a flush. The toilet tank will need to be drained, the toilet bowl unbolted from the floor, lifted, a new ring installed, then the toilet and tank replaced. This repair is as complicated as toilet replacement, so most people hire a

Overflowing toilet

Most toilets have a valve on the pipe connected to the toilet tank and shutting off this valve will stop a toilet from overflowing. If your toilet doesn’t have a shutoff valve, shut off the main water supply valve for your house. Don’t turn this valve back on until the toilet blockage is cleared and the toilet bowl is emptying properly.

Bathroom Basin Problem and Solutions:

Dripping Taps

Cartridge or washer needs to be replaced. Handy homeowners can do this work themselves, but older taps often have corroded parts that can break during removal.  Stop and call a plumber if you can’t get things to come apart.  Some Taps manufacturers offer free replacement cartridges or even free replacement taps. Call customer service before you buy any repair parts.

Blocked or slow drain:

This is a common bathroom basin problem because soap products and loose hair sometimes build up within bathroom drains. If your wash basin has a mechanical drain stopper, check to see if the blockage is caused by hair build up on the horizontal pivot rod a couple of inches below the drain opening. This common problem can be remedied by lifting out the drain stopper and removing hair with your fingers or needle nose pliers.

Leaking Drain Pipe

Water pooling on the bottom of a bathroom vanity cabinet or the floor underneath an open basin is usually caused by leaks where the drain pipe meets the basin, a leaking drain trap plug, or flaws in drain pipe joints. Occasionally under-basin leaks are also caused by a loose or broken drain stopper mechanism or by failed caulking joints that allow splashed water from the countertop to leak in around top-mount basins. See below. Repairing drain leaks can be more challenging than replacing a tap cartridge so most homeowners call for professional help

Malfunctioning drain stopper

This mechanism allows the drain to be opened and closed with a knob at the top of the tap. It’s typically a reliable part of a bathroom basin installation, but problems can still occur. A loose retaining nut securing the horizontal pivot rod can prevent the drain stopper mechanism from working or it can allow waste water to leak under the basin. Tightening the ring around the horizontal pivot rod with your fingers can sometimes eliminate leaks. Replacement drain stopper mechanisms can be purchased separately for DIY repairs or you can call a plumber.

Deteriorated Basin caulking

Many bathroom basins are molded parts of the vanity countertop so there are no caulked joints to leak. But if your basin sits on top of a countertop, and caulking is missing or deteriorated, splashed water can pool and leak around the basin and under it.

Basin smells like rotten eggs

Assuming your bathroom drain was installed correctly, odours like this are caused by microbial infection of the drain and possibly the basin overflow passage. A treatment of 3% hydrogen peroxide from a drug store should solve this problem. Pour 500 ml (2 cups) of hydrogen peroxide down the drain at night.

Shower Problems and Solutions:

Dripping shower head

Most showers have a single valve that controls hot and cold operation and a worn valve that allows dripping is the most common shower issue. A handy homeowner can replace the valve after shutting off the water supply, but most people call in a plumber for the work. As with basin taps, some manufacturers offer a lifetime warranty on shower valves. Call customer service to see if they’ll send you a replacement valve for free, even if you’re going to call Pace to install it.

Blocked or slow drain

Soap and hair build ups are the most common cause of drain problems in a shower. Drain cleaner may work in mild cases, but a plumber is usually required.

Leaking shower enclosure

This problem is not uncommon. Shower enclosures can leak where the floor meets the walls, or where a door joins to the shower opening. Some showers leak through tile grout on inadequately constructed showers. Although caulking may be able to stop leaks around doors, most leaky shower enclosures need to be rebuilt.

Smelly drain

This is caused by the same microbial infection that makes bathroom sink drains smell. Pour 500 ml (2 cups) of 3% hydrogen peroxide down the shower drain at night before bed. If the problem is microbial, the odour should be gone in the morning.

Mold growth

Increased ventilation is the cure for this problem. Run exhaust fans for at least 20 minutes after each shower and leave shower doors and curtains open between uses. Mold-resistant paint is effective at discouraging growths on walls and ceilings.

Bathtubs Problems and Solutions:

Dripping Taps or shower head

Bathtub taps and shower heads are part of the same plumbing fixture and operate from the same single or double valves. Replacement is an option for handy homeowners if shut off valves are present, but most people call a plumber for this work.

Clogged or slow drain

Soap and hair can cause a restriction in a bathtub drain just as it can in a bathroom wash-hand basin or shower. Drain cleaner is worth a try, but typically a plumber is required to clear stubborn bath tub drain blockages.

Smelly Drain

As with basin and shower drains, a bathtub drain can develop the odour of rotten eggs if it becomes infected with microbes. Pour 500 ml (2 cups) of 3% hydrogen peroxide from a drugstore down the drain at bed time and the odour should be gone by morning.

Damaged caulking

All inset bathtubs rely on caulking to seal the joint between the top of the tub and the surrounding walls. The most difficult part of re-caulking an existing tub is removing the old caulking. Solvents are available to make this easier. Ensure the area to be caulked is clean and dry before following the instructions to apply the new bathroom caulking.  Some homeowners hire a handyman to remove & replace the caulking. The neatest way to apply caulking yourself involves laying down strips of masking tape 3mm or 4mm away from the centre line of the joint. Lay down a bead of caulking, smooth it with a rubber gloved finger dipped in a mixture of dishwashing liquid and water, then peel the masking tape off. The edges of the caulked joint will be perfectly straight and neat.

Mold growth

Increasing ventilation is the way to stop the growth of mold in your bathtub. Run the bathroom exhaust fan for at least 20 minutes after a bath or shower and leave the shower curtain or doors open after use. Mold-resistant silicone caulking is made especially for use around tubs and showers.

Kitchen Sink & Taps Problems and Solutions:

Dripping Taps

Most modern kitchen taps use a single valve cartridge to control the flow of hot and cold water instead of the washers used in older Taps. Replacing the cartridge stops dripping of either hot or cold water supply. Some leading manufacturers offer a lifetime warranty on domestic plumbing Taps, including free replacement cartridges. Contact the manufacturer to see if they will ship a new cartridge at no charge. Internet images are a good way to determine what model of taps you have.

Blocked or slow drain

This is a common problem with kitchen sinks because of the food debris and grease that sometimes goes down the drain. Drain cleaner liquid can sometimes speed up a slow drain, but many times using a sink plunger or drain snake is necessary. Small plungers made for use with sinks are easy to use, but don’t use a plunger if you’ve already poured drain cleaner down first. Corrosive liquid could splash upwards at you. If you are using a plunger, simply place the mouth over the open drain, then push the plunger handle up and down with quick movements. If this doesn’t work, a drain snake is a coil of stiff metal meant to poke through blockages and open up the drain pipe. The need to open the drain trap to get into the drain with a snake means that most people call a plumber if drain cleaner or a sink plunger doesn’t work.

Leaked water on the bottom of the sink cabinet

The most common cause of this problem is a leaking drain pipe joint. Even if you don’t feel comfortable doing a drain pipe repair, take a look under the sink with good light to determine exactly where the leak is coming from. You’ll be able to hire a plumber with more confidence if you know where the problem is coming from.

In-cabinet leaks can also be caused by a faulty water supply connection to the tap. This is a much more serious leak than just a dripping tap because it can lead to a massive and damaging house flood if the leak gets worse. Modern taps usually have flexible hoses that connect water supply pipes to taps, and the fittings that make these connections can be tightened by hand. Shut off the water supply valve feeding the line, then tighten the fitting by hand clockwise. Turn the water back ON again, looking carefully for leaks. If tightening the fitting by hand doesn’t solve the problem, call a plumber. Leave the water turned off until a repair is made.

Splashed water can also leak down into the sink cabinet if the caulking or seal around the sink is defective. Removing and replacing sink caulking can be DIY work, or you can hire a handyman. Plumbers won’t usually do a house call to simply repair faulty caulking, though most will apply caulking if they’re installing a new sink.

Malfunctioning hot water dispenser

This small, separate tap dispense steaming hot water for instant use making coffee, tea, hot chocolate or instant soup. Not many homes have this kind of fixture, but if repair or replacement is required it’s best done by a professional since the work involves plumbing and electrical tasks

Dishwasher Problems and Solutions:

Dishwasher not cycling properly

There are different issues that can cause a dishwasher to fail to run well, some of which include plumbing-related issues. The most common cause of dishwasher problems is a blocked drain screen with too much trapped food on it. This prevents waste water from being pumped out of the machine. All dishwashers have at least one filter, and cleaning them is a regular household maintenance task for homeowners. Some dishwashers have filters that clean themselves, or at least try to. If your filters are manual, clean them after every few loads.  Sometimes a dishwasher won’t even start if the filter is too dirty.

Dishwasher not cleaning or draining properly

Besides a blocked filter, a malfunctioning drain pump or drain water sensor could be the cause. While plumbers typically install new dishwashers and deal with water supply and drain issues, appliance repair technicians are the people who solve mechanical issues inside the dishwasher.

Dishwasher Door leaks water

A pool of water on the floor in front of the door can be caused by overloading the machine so the door doesn’t close properly, but more commonly it indicates a malfunctioning door seal or drain pump.  You can check the seal yourself by looking for cracked, folded or broken sections that allow water to leak, or call an appliance repair technician.

Fridge with Water Dispenser Problems and Solutions:

Leaking water connection

A loose or broken water supply connection at the fridge or a broken water supply pipe is the usual cause of leaks from a water-connected fridge. A shut-off valve can be found where the thin fridge supply line connects to a cold water pipe under the kitchen sink. Learn where this valve is located so you can shut it off quickly in the event of a leak.

Slow or no water delivery from dispenser

This could be caused by a blocked supply, or from a water supply pressure that’s too low. A plumber can help you with water supply problems to your fridge, but an appliance repair engineer will be needed to fix problems inside the fridge.

Failure to make ice in the freezer

This could be caused by a blocked water supply, but it might also be that the ice maker or the valve controlling water flow into the ice maker is bad. If your fridge delivers water at good pressure from the dispenser, but does not make ice, make sure the ice maker is turned on, and that the metal ice level arm is tilted downwards to the run position. If none of these things get the freezer to make ice, call an appliance repair engineer for help. It’s not unusual for ice maker mechanisms to fail. They can often be replaced as a single unit at reasonable prices.

Laundry Washer Problems and Solutions:

Washer not cycling properly

There are different issues that can cause a washer to fail to run well, some of which include plumbing-related issues. The most common cause of washer problems is a blocked drain screen with too much trapped items on it. This prevents waste water from being pumped out of the machine. All washers have at least one filter, and cleaning them is a regular household maintenance task for homeowners. Some washers have filters that clean themselves, or at least try to. If your filters are manual, clean them after every few loads.  Sometimes a washer won’t even start if the filter is too dirty.

Washer not cleaning or draining properly

Besides a blocked filter, a malfunctioning drain pump or drain water sensor could be the cause. While plumbers typically install new washers and deal with water supply and drain issues, appliance repair engineer are the people who solve mechanical issues inside the washer.

Washer Door leaks water

A pool of water on the floor in front of the door can be caused by overloading the machine so the door doesn’t close properly, but more commonly it indicates a malfunctioning door seal or drain pump.  You can check the seal yourself by looking for cracked, folded or broken sections that allow water to leak, or call an appliance repair engineer.

Basement Cellar Problems and Solutions:

Leaking basement taps, Taps and fixtures

Repair issues like these are the same as for any tap or taps. A dripping tap usual requires a replacement washer or valve cartridge, just as with any other tap or Taps in your home.

Main water supply line and valve

Every home serviced by a city water supply will have a pipe entering the house (typically a 3/4” or 22 mm diameter line), a shutoff valve and a water meter. It’s not enough to just find the valve, but actually try closing it. Most main valves are round knobs that close with clockwise rotation. Try closing the valve to make sure it hasn’t gotten too stiff to move.

Leaking washing machine connections

Washing machines are the only appliance that connects to water supply pipes with two short hoses that have female garden hose fittings on both ends. One hose threads onto the hot water supply pipe valve and hot water inlet port on the washing machine, and the other hose connects to the cold supply valve and the cold water inlet port on the washer. All four of these connections require washers and sufficient tightness for leak-free operation. If any of these connections are dripping water, use a pair of pliers to tighten the fittings clockwise no more than 1/8 turn past finger tight. This can be a bit tricky, so it’s recommended that only handy homeowners try this themselves. If the leak persists, shut off the water supply valve, unscrew the garden hose fitting completely, replace the washer, then do the connection back up again, snugged up with pliers.

Insufficient water supply to the washing machine

Assuming the rest of our house has sufficient water pressure, a lack of water at the washing machine could be caused by two things. Most modern washing machines shut themselves down and display a warning code if insufficient water pressure is present. Check to make sure both hot and cold water supply valves are turned all the way ON. Most washing machines also have a screen filter where the water supply hoses connect. Shut off the water supply to the washer, remove the garden hose fittings from the machine, then look inside the port for debris on the inlet screens. Use tweezers and a toothpick to remove the debris. If you have hard water, mineral build up could also be partially blocking the filter screen. Apply vinegar to the filter screen with a spray bottle, let it sit for 30 minutes to dissolve the build up, then use an old tooth brush to remove the minerals. Re-establish the hose connections, turn on the water and test washing machine operation. If your washing machine still displays a code for insufficient water, remove the hoses from the washer again, put the ends in a bucket, then turn the water ON to check flow rate and pressure. If both hot and cold flow seems normal, call an appliance repair technician to look at your washer. If water flow and pressure really are low, have a plumber investigate the cause.

Basement Cellar floor drain sewage backup

If you see water bubbling up from the main floor drain in your basement, it’s a serious issue. This could be caused by a blockage in the main drain pipe leaving your house, or the entire city system could be saturated. This happens most often after heavy rains and will cause sewage to back up in some or all homes in the neighbourhood. If the problem is isolated to your home only, call a plumber and avoid flushing toilets or putting any water down the drain until the problem is resolved. If the problem is caused by a saturation of the city system, there’s nothing much anyone can do until the wet conditions subside. The ultimate protection against sewage backup is to have a backwater valve installed on your main drain pipe in the basement cellar. This one-way valve allows waste water to leave your home, but not to come back inside.

Sump-pump not pumping or draining properly

Wet basements cellar is a relatively common problem in homes with a cellar However, in many cases the problem can be resolved with a sump pump

A sump pump is a small pump installed in the lowest part of a cellar or crawlspace. Its job is to help keep the area under the building dry and to prevent it from flood­ing. Usually, sump pumps are installed in specially constructed sump pits. Water flows into the sump pit through drains or by natural water migration through the soil. The sump pump’s job is to pump the water out of the pit and away from the building so the cellar or crawlspace stays dry.

Outdoor Plumbing Fixtures Problems and Solutions:

Dripping or inoperative outdoor hose tap

Most outdoor taps use washers instead of cartridges, but either of these may need to be changed to stop a dripping outdoor tap. Find and close the shutoff valve to the tap before working on it. If you can’t find the shutoff valve, shut off all the water to the house with the main valve. If outdoor taps become too stiff to open or close, try operating the valve repeatedly to loosen the action. If this doesn’t help, replacement of the valve by a plumber will be required.

Yard irrigation system doesn’t work

Built-in lawn and garden irrigation systems include permanently buried plastic hose connected to small sprinklers, watering nozzles or trickle irrigation lines across your yard. These systems deliver water according to a pre-set schedule programmed into your system. In cold regions yard irrigation systems get drained before winter, so a failure to operate could be caused by nothing more than a main water feed valve that needs to be turned ON. Home irrigation systems usually use proprietary hardware and fittings. If you need technical help, look for a brand name on your system, then call a service company that’s familiar with your equipment.

Vented cylinder causes of a no hot water

No hot water

No hot water is the last thing you want.

The first thing you should do is check all of the taps around your home. If hot water is running from some taps but not others, then there’s a problem with the that tap rather than the mains hot water supply.

Overflow won't stop running

An overflow pipe is essentially there to stop your house from flooding. Storage header tank, for example, have an overflow an inch or so down from the top of tank to stop water from flowing over the edge.

If the overflow pipe keeps running, then this can cause leaks and flooding. And the most likely culprit is the float valve.

The role of the float valve is to prevent the storage tanks in the loft from filling up with too much water. So if the float valve breaks, the tank won’t stop filling with water and the overflow pipe will keep running.

A float valve is a small ball on the end of a long piece of plastic or metal. Something could be blocking the arm from moving up and down or the ball may have cracked and filled with water – weighing it down.

Noisy hot water pipes

Have you noticed your pipes getting noisier? Then that’s a strong sign that something is wrong. And it could be one of a few things: high water pressure, clogged pipes or loose fittings.

High water pressure can cause a lot of damage to the pipes around your home. And this can lead to leaks. It can also wear out taps, meaning that you’ll have to replace them much sooner.

The first thing you’ll want to do if you suspect high water pressure is contact your supplier. Following that, a Pace plumber can fit a pressure regulator valve. This will monitor the water pressure in your home and make sure that it doesn’t get too high.

Check your timer controller

Another factor to consider before calling a Pace engineer is to check your timer. This may have been affected by the clocks changing, power supply, back-up batteries failing or even somebody altering the settings without you knowing.

It should be easy to see at the timer control panel if the boiler is currently active for hot water. If you are not sure, check your timer manual.

Un-vented cylinder causes of a no hot water

No Heated Water

If you open the hot tap and tepid or even cold water comes out, it could be related to a very wide range of problems. For instance, there could be a problem with the electrical supply to the hot water heater, such as a blown fuse or something similar. It could also be related to the volume of hot water used already, or it could be related to damage to one or both of the heating elements in the unvented hot water heater.

No Water Flow

We offer experienced assistance no matter what has happened to your hot water supply. In some instances, you might open the hot tap and find that no water comes out at all. In this instance, there are many potential problems, including an issue with the mains themselves.

Noisy hot water pipes

Have you noticed your pipes getting noisier? Then that’s a strong sign that something is wrong. And it could be one of a few things: high water pressure, clogged pipes or loose fittings.

High water pressure can cause a lot of damage to the pipes around your home. And this can lead to leaks. It can also wear out taps, meaning that you’ll have to replace them much sooner.

The first thing you’ll want to do if you suspect high water pressure is contact your supplier. Following that, a Pace plumber can fit a pressure regulator valve. This will monitor the water pressure in your home and make sure that it doesn’t get too high.

Check your timer controller

Another factor to consider before calling a Pace engineer is to check your timer. This may have been affected by the clocks changing, power supply, back-up batteries failing or even somebody altering the settings without you knowing.

It should be easy to see at the timer control panel if the boiler is currently active for hot water. If you are not sure, check your timer manual.

Hot water heater Frequently asked Questions

Can I speak to someone if I have a question about my new hot water heater installation?

Yes, you can call us on 0207-183-2727. Our lines are open Monday to Saturday, 8am-6pm. We have limited opening hours over public holidays. We want to improve our service for you, so we may record your call to help.

How long does the new hot water heater installation last?

New hot water heater installation appointments last around 1-5 day see above

Are you still installing hot water heater in light of the Covid-19 outbreak?

Yes, we are currently installing hot water heater. You’ll find details of how we will work in a Covid-19 Secure way in our 

Before work begins​

Before work begins​ your Pace Gas Safe engineer will want to check a few things with you first. Such as how many hot water taps you have, your water pressure, the number of bathrooms in your home and the positioning of the current hot water heater and flue if applicable.

What happens on the day of the installation?

On the day if it’s a straightforward swap — e.g. combi for combi — you should expect the engineer to be done and dusted within the day. It’s worth bearing in mind though, that if it’s a much older hot water heater system or you’re changing boiler type, there may be complications which prolong the installation. You’ll need to be around to have a run-through of the new hot water heater controls once it’s fitted.

Getting the right documentation

Getting the right documentation to comply with Building Regulations and Gas Safe rules, Pace Heating & Plumbing will notify the local authorities on your behalf when we have completed your new installation we will also give you a Building Regulations Certificate to prove compliance

What happens after the installation?

Unlike most other company Pace Heating & Plumbing will offer you a guarantee on our services. If you’ve hired Pace Heating & Plumbing there is no need to worry, you can call us on 0207-183-2727. Our lines are open Monday to Saturday, 8am-6pm.  We want to improve our service for you, so we may record your call to help.

Combi Boiler and Multi-Point Boilers

Is your boiler working?

The first thing you should check if you have no hot water is whether or not your boiler is working. Depending on the type of boiler you have, the first sign that your boiler is not working will often be a change from the usual display colour along with an error code.

To find out what the error code means, consult your boiler manual

Some fault codes can be easily rectified yourself with a simple boiler reset, whilst others may need professional attention. If you are not sure how to fix the fault code, it is recommended to contact Pace engineer for advice.

Check your water, gas and electricity supply

If there is no display on your boiler, this may indicate that the problem is with your power supply – checking to see if you have electricity to your lights and sockets will quickly confirm this. You may also want to check your main fuse box. If you have experienced a recent power cut, this may have also affected your boiler settings.

Also make sure there is a water supply – if no water comes from the taps, there may be a temporary supply interruption. Whilst this may seem obvious, it is easy to overlook in the heat of the moment.

Finally, make sure you have a gas supply by checking other appliances such as your gas cooker.

Checking your boiler is set correctly

Boiler settings

Water and heating – not heating only. There is always a possibility that the settings may have been adjusted without your knowledge or by mistake. Also check that the hot water is set to a reasonable temperature.

Check your timer

Another factor to consider before calling a Pace engineer is to check your timer. This may have been affected by the clocks changing, power supply, back-up batteries failing or even somebody altering the settings without you knowing.

It should be easy to see at the timer control panel if the boiler is currently active for hot water. If you are not sure, check your timer manual.

If you still have problems

If you are confident that your hot water problem is not caused by one of the above problems then it may be advisable to seek help from a Pace engineer. You may wish to look at the following options if you feel confident to do so.

Check your boiler pressure

If your home runs on a combi-boiler, then low pressure may be the reason for your lack of hot water. The water pressure for a standard domestic boiler is usually around 1.5 bar and will be displayed on a gauge, usually located where the water supply pipes are connected to the boiler. 

If your pressure is below the normal operating range, follow this guide to re-pressurise.

Important: Be sure to consult the operating manual first to ensure that you are able to re-pressurise the boiler yourself. If there are no instructions for this or if you have any doubts, Call us at Pace for assistance.

How to re-pressurise your boiler

Only attempt to re-pressurise the boiler if your manual indicates that it is safe to do so and you are comfortable performing this task yourself. The following steps should be followed:

  1. Find the location of your filling-loop and pressure gauge. You should find that the filling loop handles are at a 90° angle to the flow of the pipe.
  2. Before beginning, make sure you can see the pressure gauge at all times whilst accessing the filling loop. The operating pressure for most systems is around 1.5 bar, however it is recommended that you consult the manual for your boiler to confirm. The correct pressure level will often be indicated on the gauge for modern systems with a green area.
  3. Turn the system off.
  4. Slowly turn both of the filling loop handles until they match the direction of the pipe – as you do this, you should be able to hear water flowing.
  5. Take care to observe the gauge at all times to avoid over-pressurising the boiler. It may be easier to get somebody you trust to help you. Once you have restored the correct pressure, ensure the handles are fully closed.
Check for leaks

A leak in either your heating or hot water system can cause a fall in pressure and result in a lack of hot water. Leaks can also cause other problems associated with damp which may lead to significant damage. Look for patches on ceilings, peeling or flaking paint on or around pipes, swollen woodwork and mould patches.

Leaks often occur at joints in pipework which are usually visible, so these are a good place to start. Take care not to mistake condensation for a leak.

Vented and Un-Vented Cylinder Tanks

No Hot Water

However, while we’re more than happy to provide any help needed to troubleshoot, repair or replace a hot water heater, there are a few quick and easy steps you can take on your own to save time and money. These checks are related to the electrical supply to the boiler, and are safe for the average homeowner to carry out, providing you bear a few basics in mind relating to electrical safety. The self-help checks detailed within this guide are relatively basic,

With that being said, if you’re unsure how to complete these checks safely, or have any qualms about your ability to complete them yourself, call for assistance or book a call-out with a Pace engineer.

Essential Things to Remember Before Beginning

  • Isolate supplies before working near electricity.
  • Do not touch any exposed conductors or wires.
  • If an electrical switch, isolator, mini-circuit breaker or RCD is turning itself off, leave it in the off position and call Pace immediately.
  • If you see or smell signs of burning, turn off the electrical supply and call Pace.
  • Keep children away from electricity.
Checking your water supply – conventional systems

If you have a conventional system and have a problem with your hot water heater not working, then you may need to make sure that there is water in your header tank. If the tank has run dry, this could be due to a problem with the ballcock seizing and preventing it from refilling.

Check the Circuit Breaker

Locate your breaker box and find the mini-circuit breaker for the water heater. Is it in the on or off position? Note that some water heaters actually have two circuit breakers. One operates the boost immersion heater and the other operates the main immersion heater at the bottom of the cylinder. If the breaker is in the off position, turn it to on. If it will not remain in the on position, do not attempt to force it. Leave it in the off position and call Pace for professional help. This means there is a serious electrical fault, possibly caused by a damaged immersion heater. If the breaker stays in the on position, allow the unit to heat the water and check the flow at the tap.

Check the Water Heating

Is the water heater timer controller or programmer switched on and set correctly? It may have been inadvertently knocked and turned the hot water system off. Alternatively, summer settings might not be adequate for wintertime temperatures when incoming water from the mains is much colder and requires more time to heat.

Check the Fuse

Has the water heater fuse blown? There is a 13-amp fuse located in the water heater fuse spur (boxes). Check this and replace it if needed. If the replacement fuse also blows, there may be a loose wire causing a short circuit., call Pace for water heater repairs.

Check Water Usage

Another possible cause of no hot water is higher than normal hot water use. Has the household been taking more baths or longer showers than normal? Hot water cylinders vary in capacity from 120 litres upward. The average cylinder holds between 160 and 210 litres. The problem might not be a water heater fault’s simple high demand might be the culprit. You can address this in the short-term by pressing the boost function. If the higher demand is more permanent in nature, you can adjust the time clock on the water heater to suit your new usage situation.

If the steps listed above do not help, you’ll need to call Pace Heating & Plumbing for professional assistance. If you need assistance with any hot water heater repairs, to schedule hot water heater maintenance, or to install a new hot water heater, call Pace at 0207-183-2727

FAQs on our commercial boiler installation

Do you fix every type of commercial boiler?

Our engineers can repair nearly every type of commercial gas boiler. We don’t fix oil boilers, electric boilers, or solid fuel boilers.

Will your engineer fix my commercial boiler in one visit?

It depends on what the problem is, but we’ll always do our best. Our engineers carry lots of parts in their vans. If we don’t have the part, we’ll order it from our Distribution Centre and the part will usually be available the next day.

What should I do if I want to speak to someone about an existing maintenance plan or report a breakdown?

You can book a repair, or talk to us about your existing Maintenance Protection Plan agreement on:
0207-183-2727

What if I’m looking for a repair for the boiler in my home or a home I rent out?

We’ve got gas engineers ready to help you get your central heating and hot water back on. Visit our Domestic boiler repair, visit Landlord boiler repair pages for more information.

How is Pace Heating & Plumbing Heat keeping customers safe during engineer visits?

Keeping you and our engineers safe is our top priority. Our engineers will follow the latest government guidelines to prevent the spread of coronavirus when at your business premises.

To find out more, read our coronavirus update and FAQs

How much does a commercial boiler repair cost?

The price you’ll pay will vary depending on your business location and the size and type of your commercial boiler or gas appliance you have. Our one-off repair pricing starts from £125 for one hour excluding parts, or £79 fixed price repairs when you sign up to Commercial Maintenance Protection Plan.

Should I repair or replace my commercial boiler?

When deciding whether to repair or replace a boiler, you should consider how old, efficient, and reliable your current boiler is. If your boiler is over 10-15 years old, the cost of repairs may increase over time and we’d recommend you replacing your boiler.

Can I repair my commercial boiler myself?

Working with gas requires extensive knowledge, training and experience, so only gas safe registered engineers should work on gas appliances.

There are some small common fixes you can do which don’t require you to work with gas see below

What if you can't repair my commercial boiler?

If we can’t fix your problem, our engineer will let you know straight away and tell you what your options are.